Summer in California and my Supra sits outside for the first time in 14 years. It is under cover and on stands at the moment. The landlord at the office complex where I have a commercially zoned garage… almost in a residential neighborhood… has given me permission to park outside for “three weeks”. We are on month eleven and nobody has complained. This lets me do bigger jobs that require space and time to complete. The drivetrain is in the car for the first time in 16 years, and here is a list of what remains to be done on my Supra — 8-19-2021.
The following items need to be addressed in and under the hood, and outside the cabin:
- Straighten out mess at fuse box
- Couple of relays there which might not be used
- Igniter gone – make sure wires to it are gone
- Resistor pack gone – make sure wires to it are gone
- Identify proper ground location
- Wire electric fan controller
- Probably done by ECU (not sure if firmware exists to support)
- Wire Aeromotive AFPR device
- Create bracket for Hall Effect Sensor on 36-1 trigger wheel
- Redundant (backup solution)
- Expected primary trigger wheel is 12-tooth on crank behind lower timing belt pulley
- Finish spark plug wiring harness
- Quick disconnect (required for software updates)
- Finish injector wiring harness
- Wire in new resistor pack for low-impedance injectors
- Quick disconnect (required for software updates)
- Replace plug on CPS (requires de-pinning and repining connectors)
- Re-check epoxy for cracks – if cracked, rebuild
- Backup plan: Two choices here 1) Hall Effect setup I purchased, 2) Piratetip’s solution
- Wire DriftMotion oil temperature switch
- Route LSU-49 wideband O2 sensor to center console
- Wire wideband to ECU location
- Correct shield on two Hall Effect Sensors (currently not shielded)
- Install Drop Bear Speeduino ECU
- Clock (rotate) turbo housing to clear both hardpipes (intake and lower to IC)
- Bolts on both sides of turbo currently loosened
- Be sure to tighten before operation
- Route hardpipes which currently do not fit
- Fabricate bracket and install wastegate actuator
- Must re-install passenger side tie-down bracket
- Make sure clearances allow towbar to be connected to tie down brackets
- Create and Route hoses from relocated oil filter thermostat sandwich plate to oil cooler
- Requires drilled holes and grommet
- Create hoses from top of relocated oil filter to relocation plate on exhaust side of engine
- 90 degree -AN10 fittings will not clear everything in that area
- Try 45 degree – and look for other solution
- Install catch cans (dual) and figure out new lines to intake, etc.
- Eliminate MAF since we’re using MAP (or just leave it alone)
- Finish battery cables
- Done in cabin to firewall connectors
- Run from firewall to inside of fender – coming up in engine bay
- One existing 7/8” hole present – create second and add two grommets
- Install cold start injector brass washers
- Continue to search for pipe requested in WTB section of SupraForums
- Obtain and install whatever seals necessary on A/C compressor hose connections
- Make fuel line connections below intake
- Feed
- Return
- Replace slave cylinder hose
- Bracket does not seem to mount correctly – investigate missing brace
- Install drive shaft “loop” (not a loop, just a metal bracket where center drive shaft bearing was
- Fix stripped thread on one of four bolts on rear drivetrain mount (at transmission tail shaft)
- Secure front brake flexible lines (currently held with plastic ties)
- Install catalytic converter bracket (Walker Exhaust 35001 – from O’Reilly’s)
- Have radiator shop modify radiator tabs on bottom of radiator
- Install heat protection on turbo water cooling line nearest exhaust manifold.
- Lengthen hood pins with ½”-20 threaded stock
- Install hood pins (not in traditional area – see photo library)
- Finish shortening TEMS wires (requires re-pinning 4 prong Toyota connector
- Reinstall front bumper (check clearances of oil cooler, intercooler, headlights and towbar hookup)
- Install turn signals and front grill, plus anything else taken off
- Install NASCAR style ducting directed to oil cooler
- Install driving lamps
- Install windshield washer nozzles and washer hose
- Install and secure rear grill behind Kaminari bumper skin
- Fill rear bumper with closed-cell foam
The following items need to be addressed inside the cabin:
- Heater box – check that hookup beneath steering column is connected
- Stereo head unit, amplifier and base speaker in tire well – wire it
- Secure base speaker box to car and make sure bottom is sealed
- Make brackets for battery box behind passenger seat position
- Permanently mount on-board Battery Tender
- Mount battery cut-off switch (get 4 pole, trash 2 pole in stock)
- Mount inline fuse box next to cut-off switch
- Mount articulated arm to house two Raspberry Pi computers with 7” touch screens
- Install 12v to 5v buck converters for Raspi
- Install Arduino in console for keyless push to start button
- Install the button 😊
- Secure wood panel in place of rear seats and cover with carpet
- Identify better position for fire extinguisher (currently on brace bar)
- Weld brace bar to car (safety hazard if only bolted to harness positions)
- Finish installing hush mat
- Install remaining plastic trim in back of car
- Dash is installed and wiring harness is attached, but some weatherstrip needs fixing
- Install seats
- Install 6-point harnesses
- Remove drivetrain to complete items on list that cannot be done in car.
- Complete as required
- Consider A/C condenser at this time while engine and radiator are out.
- Reinstall drivetrain.
- And all that shit you took off to remove it
- Fill fluids (engine and transmission oil, cooling system.
- Differential is clean and full.
- Check & refill brake and clutch fluids, as required.
- Install underbody tray
- Muffler shop to apply final fix to angle of rear muffler.
- Toyota Dealer for alignment.
- Charge A/C with R-134 using new receiver-drier.
Drive it like you stole it!